CYPRUS: DISCOVER THE DELIGHTS OF DIVIDED ISLAND

ROCK OF AGES: Aphrodite's Rock, to left of the gap.
Picture courtesy of Chindos Constantinou

APHRODITE’S Rock off the coast of Paphos in southwest Cyprus is reputed to possess miraculous powers. One legend says that if you swim naked around it three times in an anti-clockwise direction at midnight you’ll enjoy lifelong fertility. Another take on the story promises eternal beauty. But my favourite tantalisingly suggests that for every three circuits you’ll become 10 years younger. Imagine all those elderly men on the beach yelling “Keep going, dear, keep going!” as their exhausted wives sink from sight.

There are few more spectacular sights in Cyprus than the sun sinking below the horizon as viewed from this magical spot, though testing the myth could result in eternal rest rather than eternal beauty as the currents around the rock can be treacherous.

No such fears in the pool at the 4-star Avanti Hotel in Paphos, where I recently chilled out for four nights and which is clearly doing something right — a couple from England have holidayed there 42 times in the past 18 years. What’s more, they always stay in the same room. I can well understand why they keep returning to this family-owned and family-friendly hotel, though the young lady at reception couldn’t understand when I tried to check out a day early — I got my dates wrong after a night out in the Shamrock Bar across the street.

The 243-room Avanti is a favourite with disabled holidaymakers. Ramps indoor and out ensure all public areas are easily accessible to wheelchair users, and three rooms are specially adapted to their needs. I’ve never stayed in a hotel where so much consideration is shown to guests with limited mobility.

DIP DIP HOORAY: Pool at the Avanti Hotel in Paphos

The Avanti ticks all the boxes as a sunshine wedding venue, too — 32 couples from the UK and Ireland have booked to tie the knot there next year. One pair of newlyweds who were married in the hotel grounds last summer inadvertently left their buttonhole and bouquet behind when they went home, but they’ll find them preserved and lacquered and placed on their pillows when they return next July to celebrate their first anniversary. A nice touch, and another reason why the Avanti gets so many repeat visitors.

Sunshine is guaranteed almost year-round in Cyprus, though a late-night torrential downpour accompanied by a spectacular lightning show and deafening thunder provided some relief from the scorching heat. One minute, I was sitting on the terrace of the Shamrock enjoying a beer. The next, I was scurrying inside as the soaked-to-the-skin staff battled to roll down the shutters while rain ricocheted off the street like bullets. The following morning, the mid-October weather was back to normal, with the thermometer showing 70F/21C at nine o’clock. Come 3pm, it was 82/28 — enough to roast the island’s famed waxy potatoes in the ground.

Contrary to popular belief, prices in once-expensive Cyprus are now cheap. A pint of the locally-brewed Keo lager costs an average €2.50, and if you smoke, a 20 pack of Marlboro Gold is €4.50. Dinner for two with a shared tuna salad, fried aubergines to start followed by kleftiko (herb-infused slow-cooked lamb) for me, grilled rabbit for my colleague and fresh pomegranates for dessert with two big beers and two Cokes cost €38. When we asked for a couple of eggs in the salad, the waiter stepped into the adjoining garden and lifted them from the hen coop. A little later, he picked the pomegranates from a tree overhanging the dining terrace.

That was in Restaurant Pirki, just down the street from the 5-star Grecian Park Hotel in Ayia Napa/Protaras where we stayed for three nights before heading west (the Cypriots drive on the left on great roads) along the coast to Paphos.

BAY-EAUTIFUL: Konnos Bay, below Grecian Park Hotel

The 239-room Grecian Park, in Cape Greco National Park, sits on a hill above Konnos Bay where a sandy beach, crystal clear water and an abundance of watersport facilities make it the perfect spot to sunbathe, swim or get towed on a giant inflatable banana behind a speedboat. An open-air cafe and bar with shady trees and a cooling sea breeze overlooking the bay provides shelter when it gets too hot on the beach, though it’s advisable to buy a bottle of water there before attempting the trek back up the steps to the hotel. If you stay in the Grecian Park and decide to spend an evening relaxing in the bar, do the staff a favour and buy rounds. A 14-strong party of respectable, middle-aged but miserly Londoners spent two hours drinking cocktails and then asked for individual bills. The waiter wasn’t impressed — it was a busy night — but he displayed remarkable reserve while he processed 14 separate credit card payments. And not one of them left a tip.

Ayia Napa and Protaras in the southeast of Cyprus are for those whose holidays are all about sun, sand and sea. At the other end of the island Paphos, the ancient capital, is more for visitors who like to mix sizzling on the beach with sizing up the sights. With so much to see in and around these popular resorts and farther afield, take an extra memory card for your camera as you’ll be clicking away like a pair of loose-fitting dentures.

Paphos’s archaeological park, full of the remains of Roman villas, fortresses and an intact amphitheatre, is a must-see (€3.40 entrance), but allow yourself three or four hours to get the most from your visit. It’s wise to go early to avoid the sometimes slow-moving queues that form to see the fabulous, 1,600-year-old mosaics in the Houses of Dionysos, Theseus and Aion depicting scenes mainly from Greek mythology. The nearby and equally vast Tombs of the Kings (€1.70) is an ancient Greek burial site dating from the third century BC, though the name is misleading as no royal personages were interred there. Rather, the tombs carved from solid rock were the resting places of around 100 moneyed merchants and aristocrats, but they’re so regally impressive that the name has stuck.

ROMAN-TIC: Mosaic in Paphos's Archaeological Park

TOMB WITH A VIEW: Tombs of the Kings in Paphos

Both of these World Heritage Sites are on the route of the open-topped tour bus (€12.50), but as neither allows vehicles inside they’re just stops and pick-up points along the way. If you opt to stay on board and simply sun yourself on the upper deck you’ll miss savouring centuries of history, but at least the taped commentary will point out the fire station, police HQ and Debenhams department store. Thrilling stuff. It’s better to stroll to the archaeological park, at the castle end of the esplanade, and if you want to see the Tombs, the 615 local bus (€2 return) will leave you at the entrance, but be very careful when crossing the busy main road to the bus stop for the trip back into town. If one spot in Cyprus is in urgent need of a light-controlled pedestrian crossing, it’s this one.

Paphos is an ideal base for excursions, and especially good are those offered by Andreas Coaches (call 00357 99602200), with hotel and villa pick-up and drop-off. Among the tours to choose from are Famagusta in the Turkish-occupied north of the island (€30, every Saturday, bring your passport); the capital, Nicosia, from where the Cyprus jury unfailingly awards Greece the maximum 12 points during the annual Eurovision Song Contest (€20, Friday); and Limassol (€20, Friday). We joined the Troodos Mountains trip (€20, Monday and Thursday) that takes in the wine-producing village of Omodos with free tastings, Mount Olympus for sweeping views of Turkish-occupied Northern Cyprus (the Turks invaded in 1974) from the island’s highest vantage point, Kykkos Monastery and the tomb and giant statue of former president Archbishop Makarios. The journey was a bit scary at times as driver George negotiated hairpin bends overlooking 1,000-foot drops like those in India in Ice Road Truckers: Deadliest Roads, but we were in safe hands.

Kalliopi Travel & Tours (00357 26818534, www.kalliopitravel.com) also offers a wide selection of day excursions, including a Jeep safari, and organises boat trips and scuba diving, so there’s no excuse for not getting out and about and exploring all that this divided but delightful island has to offer.

PEAK-A-BOO: Village of Omodos, Troodos Mountains

Airports are great places for people-watching and eavesdropping, and Larnaca was no exception as we killed time waiting for our flight home. While mooching around in duty free, I spotted a remarkably sunburned man from Northern Ireland filling his arms with cartons of cheap cigarettes, much to the dismay of his teenaged daughter.

“Ach, Daddy!” she complained. “You said you were giving up the fags.”

“Listen, love,” said her father, “at these prices you’d be mad not to smoke.”

CYPRUS TRAVEL FILE

FROM DUBLIN: Thomas Cook Holidays Ireland operates weekly flights from May 27 to October 14, with 7 and 14-night package holidays and flight-only deals available. Choose from more than a dozen properties offering self-catering, B&B, half-board and all-inclusive in Ayia Napa, Protaras, Penera and Paphos. Packages start from €569 per person sharing based on 7 nights at the 3-star-plus Rising Star Apartments in Protaras. See www.thomascook.ie or call 01 514 0328.

FROM BELFAST: Thomas Cook Holidays with Style offers 7 nights all-inclusive from £835pps in a Junior Suite at the 4-star Olympic Lagoon, Ayia Napa, departing May 2. See www.thomascookstyle.com Thomas Cook Families has 7 nights self-catering from £1,696 for 2 adults and 2 children at the 4-star Marlita Beach, Protaras, departing May 2. See www.thomascook.com Airtours offers 7 nights s/c from £494pps at the 3-star Vangelis, Protaras, departing May 2. See www.airtours.co.uk
FLY: See www.flythomascook.com for dates and prices of seasonal flight-only deals from Dublin and Belfast.

STAY: For independent travellers booking their own accommodation, the Grecian Park Hotel, Ayia Napa/Protaras (www.grecianpark.com) and the Avanti Hotel, Paphos (www.avantihotel.com).

EAT: In Protaras, Restaurant Pirki (see above) for kleftiko, rabbit and moussaka. In Paphos, Restaurant Ta Mttavia and 7 St. George’s Tavern for traditional meze (umpteen small dishes of different meats or fish served hot and cold, savoury and spicy, with salads, breads, cheeses and yoghurt, for a minimum of two persons), The Seagull and Theo’s for seafood, The Pelican for grilled sardines, Hondros for kleftiko, Chloe’s for Chinese, Gold Sakura for Japanese. The Pinguino Cafe-Restaurant deserves special mention for going out of its way to provide a selection of gluten-free dishes (it also serves the best cocktails and ice cream in town).

MORE INFO: See www.visitcyprus.com

THUMBTHING SPECIAL: Sardine lunch at the Pelican

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ORLANDO DOLPHIN IS SPITTING IMAGE OF FLIPPER

LIP SERVICE: I get a kiss from Discovery Cove's rude dolphin Akai

It’s well-known that elephants never forget, but no creature has a longer memory than Akai the dolphin. Two years ago when I got into the water with him in Orlando’s Discovery Cove, he spat in my eye and then had the cheek to chuckle. When I went back this summer I was prepared to let bygones be bygones, but what did he do? Spat in my eye — after a mouthful of smelly sardines — and chuckled again. If a cork had come bobbing by I’d have bunged it in his breathing hole.

Swimming with dolphins is just one of the thrill-filled experiences that make Orlando the complete holiday destination. A bit more daring is hitching a lift in a hang glider, sky diving without a parachute, kayaking in a creek that’s home to alligators and viewing fireworks from above in a light aircraft, but the main attractions that enticed 51.5 million visitors in 2010 are year-round sunshine and theme parks. Oh, and 12 mammoth shopping malls and outlet centres where you can buy a big suitcase and fill it with the latest designer gear for half the price it would cost at home, so don’t arrive in Orlando weighed down with luggage. And don’t go out pubbing or clubbing at night without your passport as many establishments won’t let you in without ID, no matter how over-21 you are or look.

Even if you are turned away, it will be done with such charm that you’ll feel bad for having put the doorman to so much trouble. That’s typical of everyone who earns their livelihood from the hospitality sector — there are no Basil Fawltys in the world’s number one choice for family fun. Hotel, restaurant, bar, club and attractions staff comport themselves like graduates of the finest finishing schools, unlike some waiters and barmen I’ve met on my travels who’d be considered too nasty for the toughest reform schools.

Orlando has 450 hotels with 114,000 guests rooms, 5,000 restaurants, 176 golf courses (Tiger Woods, Arnold Palmer and Ernie Ells live there), seven of the most popular theme parks in the world and a climate to fry for — the daily high from October to May is 27C/81F, and from June to September it hits 32C/90F. The 800,000 seniors from colder northern states and Canada who descend on Orlando for the winter know a good thing when they see it — who needs to endure four feet of snow when you can enjoy four months of sunshine?

VIEWTIFUL: View from my room at the JW Marriott

The tourism authority (www.visitorlando.com) reckons it would take 67 days to properly visit all the parks and more than 100 other attractions, and nearly five years to eat in all the restaurants if you went to three a day, but if you’re there for only a week there’s still an awful lot you can pack in without feeling you’re on a whirlwind tour. Talking of whirlwinds, when I was last there the tail end of a hurricane dumped several lakes’ worth of rain in one day, flipped a couple of Cessnas on to their backs at the airport and bent palm trees so much that their tops were whipping the ground. August through October is the height of the hurricane season, but it’s rare for Orlando to suffer any great damage, though your pride might be dented if you have to walk around the Walt Disney World Resort in a dripping wet Pluto plastic poncho.

BROLLY GOOD SHOW: Tom and pals at Disney's Magic Kingdom

A few grey days aside, the sky is usually a beautiful holiday brochure blue, like all those swimming pools that can be seen dotting the landscape as your plane descends. But where’s the beach? It’s remarkable how many first-time visitors think Orlando’s by the seaside. It’s not: it’s 40 miles inland from the Atlantic and 60 miles from the Gulf of Mexico, which greatly weakens the hurricanes that cause such havoc in coastal communities. It also means there’s no chance of being eaten by a shark — the worst that can happen is a dolphin might spit in your eye, but that’s a small price to pay for being in holiday heaven.

There is a sandy beach, albeit man-made, at Discovery Cove (www.discoverycove.com) where you can spend the day sunbathing, swimming with rays and colourful tropical fish, whizzing down water chutes, riding an inflatable tube around the Wind-Away River and interacting with Akai and his bottlenose buddies. Being an all-inclusive resort — daily visitor numbers are limited to around 1,000 so it never feels crowded — the entrance fee covers breakfast, lunch, snacks, drinks, smoothies and ice cream throughout the day, wetsuits and vests, snorkels and masks and activities depending on your chosen package. Whichever price plan you opt for, be sure to include the up-close-and-personal dolphin encounter or you’ll be denying yourself the thrill of a lifetime. It isn’t cheap, but it’s an experience you’ll cherish and be talking about for years.

THRALL ABOARD: Magical Hogwarts Express in the Wizarding World

The most talked-about attraction of all, when you get your breath back, is the gasp-inducing Wizarding World of Harry Potter at the Universal Orlando Resort, and the most exciting ride on Earth is the Forbidden Journey deep within Hogwarts School of Witchcraft and Wizardry (I say exciting as opposed to scary — I’ll come to the theme park rollercoasters soon). Visit the animated website (www.universalorlando.com/harrypotter) and within seconds you’ll be itching to visit the real thing, where you step through an archway to be greeted by the conductor of the Hogwarts Express, probably the most photographed guy in Orlando after Mickey Mouse. And there it is behind him, a full-scale replica of engine 5972 that pulls the train between platform 9¾ at London King’s Cross and Hogsmeade.

The moment you set eyes on that red and black steam locomotive, the snow-capped shops just beyond and the towering turrets of Hogwarts Castle in the distance, you’re transported into the magical world of JK Rowling’s seven books that have sold 450 million copies and the eight movies that have taken $7 billion at the worldwide box office.

All the shops are open for business and do a roaring trade, which is inevitable given the huge numbers of visitors each day and all day. Fans can’t get enough of the merchandise on sale in Zonko’s joke shop, Honeydukes sweet shop, Ollivanders wands, Dervish and Banges for Quidditch gear and Hogwarts uniforms and scarves and Filch’s Emporium of Confiscated Goods where every imaginable type of Potter memento has spellbound Muggles spending money hand over fist. The magic words in the Wizarding World aren’t “Hey Presto!”, they’re “Cash or card?”, but you don’t save for a holiday in Orlando only to scrimp when you get there.

ONE CLASS ACT: Hogwarts Castle at Universal

Stocking up on souvenirs (do it on the way out to avoid carrying bags around) is hungry and thirsty work, so drop into the Three Broomsticks for some fish and chips, shepherd’s pie or mini Cornish pasties washed down with non-alcoholic butterbeer or pumpkin juice, or a more potent potion from the Hog’s Head pub through the back where dead-on-their-feet dads seek a sanity-saving break from shopping and gawping. You’ll either love or loathe butterbeer, a caramel-coloured sugar-rush that tastes of butterscotch and shortbread and comes in liquid and slushy varieties, but go easy with the latter — too big a gulp and you’ll get brain freeze.

If you’re prone to seasickness, eat and drink after your five-minute Forbidden Journey ride. It’s not a rollercoaster, it’s what’s called a dark ride robocoaster where the seats, or “enchanted benches”, are held above the track by a robotic arm. There are no loop-the-loops or high-speed corkscrew manoeuvres, nothing upside down and no face-contorting G-forces to contend with; however, this amazing mix of audio animatronics and wrap-around projection screens does involve unexpected drops, spins, twists and backward tipping and reaches 23mph/37kph as riders fly through a Floo Network following Harry and Ron Weasley on their broomsticks into the action of a Quidditch match. There are also close encounters with a fire-breathing dragon, a venom-spitting acromantula, a flailing Whomping Willow, Dementors and collapsing cliffs, with accompanying dramatic music and sound effects plus the screams of riders.

Be aware, though, that unless you join the Forbidden Journey queue before 9am or after 5pm, you’re in for a lengthy wait — upwards of 2½ hours at peak times — before your backside touches one of those enchanted benches, but believe me, it’s worth it. Just make sure you have plenty of water with you or you’ll faint before you get the chance to fly.

HIGH GUYS: Try a hang-gliding adventure at the Wallaby Ranch

I was flying — and silently praying — when I went tandem hang-gliding at Wallaby Ranch (www.wallabyranch.com) after being towed along the ground and 2,000 feet into the air by a guy piloting what appeared to be a propeller-powered bedstead masquerading as a plane. The knuckles of a corpse in the advanced stages of rigor mortis couldn’t have been tighter than mine as I clung to the forward crossbar for dear life, especially when the towrope was released. But then, as the hang-glider wobbled a bit and steadied, all was peaceful and calm and silent, except for the whoosh of the wind in my ears as we rode the thermals, soaring and swooping, and I relaxed my grip and enjoyed the views. For 10 minutes we rose and fell, dipped and dived, and then I got to wondering — how the hell do we get down from here? But I needn’t have worried. When the wheels on the hang-glider tickled the ground after a gentle descent, it was like landing in a field coated with marshmallows.

In stark contrast to my airborne adventure, kayaking in Shingle Creek (www.grandelakes.com/Eco-Tours-115.html), a three-minute golf buggy ride from the JW Marriott Grande Lakes Hotel where I stayed on both my visits to Orlando, was two hours of head-cleansing tranquillity. Until, that is, expedition leader, scientist and wise guy Carlos pointed to the riverbank a few feet from me and casually remarked: “Oh, look, there’s an alligator.” Never has a kayak been paddled in such a panic or so quickly. I went skimming across the surface of that creek faster than a torpedo with my arms going like a windmill in a gale and Carlos laughing his head off — the man-eater I’d imagined turned out to be a two-foot long baby. That’s all very well, but two-foot long babies have 13-foot long mothers which weigh up to 800 pounds, and I wasn’t going to hang around for an introduction. Scaredy-cat moment aside, being up the creek with a paddle and under the safe supervision of Carlos was probably the most carefree and relaxing way of spending a morning before setting out for a day in the theme parks.

PADDLE DO NICELY: Kayaking in peaceful Shingle Creek

Universal Orlando Resort’s Islands of Adventure (www.universalorlando.com) is home to the Hollywood Rip Ride Rockit, a rollercoaster with speakers in the headrests that let you listen to a soundtrack of your choice as you shoot around the track at 65mph. At 17 storeys high this is Orlando’s tallest coaster. It includes a 167-foot vertical lift and is very scary indeed — the last time I saw so many people blessing themselves I was in Saint Peter’s Square.

The Amazing Adventures of Spider-Man, in which riders follow Spidey as he chases a gang who’ve stolen the Statue of Liberty, is widely regarded as setting the standard in 3D filmed images. The simulated 400-foot freefall leaves faces white with fright.

Jump aboard the hilarious Simpsons Ride and enjoy a simulated rollercoaster tour of Springfield and Krustyland projected in quadruple high definition on an 80-foot diameter dome. As you might expect, Krusty the Clown’s budget for maintaining his creaking attractions is non-existent, so riders are in for a destructive journey in the company of Homer, Marge, Bart, Lisa, Maggie and many other favourite characters.

The Incredible Hulk Coaster takes off with the same force as a Top Gun fighter jet leaving an aircraft carrier, going from 0 to 40mph in just two seconds and reaching 67mph as it careers through loops and bends for 2¼ terrifying minutes. Not for the faint-hearted.

If a go on the Incredible Hulk hasn’t dampened your appetite for thrills and spills, the Jurassic Park River Adventure’s 85-foot plunge — like going over the Niagara Falls — will leave you drenched, but after 10 minutes of walking around in the sunshine your clothes will be dry again.

WATER YOU WAITING FOR: Thrilling Jurassic Park River Adventure

From getting a ducking we move on to diving, or rather floating, in a vertical wind tunnel at iFly Orlando (www.iflyorlando.com), which is a must-do experience. There’s no need to pull on a parachute and jump from a plane, just lean forward and you’ll be riding a column of air from giant fans beneath the grille in the floor. You’ll be up and down like a fiddler’s elbow to start with, but once you get the hang of it with the help of an instructor, indoor skydiving is easy-peasy. Unless, that is, you’re like me. I did more falling than flying, which resulted in some pretty spectacular handstands, but at least the kids watching through the glass walls got a laugh. It’s best to make a reservation as this is so popular that turning up on spec might result in a long wait or disappointment.

Another air-raising experience I’d recommend is seeing fireworks from above — well above and out of range — or getting a daytime bird’s eye view of the theme parks from a light aircraft with Mauiva Air Tours (www.mauivaairtours.com). I took the nightly fireworks flight out of Kissimmee airport with baby-faced pilot Blake Taylor who on landing said I was the quietest passenger he’d ever had. He’d been chatting away for 30 minutes, pointing out all the illuminated landmarks, and wondered why I hadn’t responded. When I told him I hadn’t heard a word, he realised he hadn’t switched my headphones on, but I’m sure it was a fascinating commentary.

AIR WE GO: Sign up for indoor skydiving at iFly Orlando, a must-do

One of the major highlights of a holiday in Orlando is seeing the performing killer whales during a day out at the out-of-this-world SeaWorld (www.seaworldparks.com). The Shamu Show, One Ocean has adults and children alike whooping with delight, especially when those sitting closest to the pool get a soaking when these black and white giants of the sea send a tidal wave of water over them. However, as mentioned above, the heat of the sun ensures that those who get drenched are dry again before they know it.

Apart from being a venue for fabulous family entertainment, SeaWorld is a world leader in the conservation of endangered marine creatures, especially the curious, unimaginably slow-moving manatee which at first sight appears to be part walrus, part lava lamp and is native to Florida’s sub-tropical waters, the Caribbean, the Gulf of Mexico, the Amazon Basin and West Africa. Looking at it in its SeaWorld pond where no one can harm it, it’s a big blob of blubber that only a mother manatee could love. However, in the wild these placid animals which feed for up to eight hours a day and rest for up to 12 have been hunted for their meat and had their habitats destroyed.

WHALE OF A TIME: Fabulous Shamu Show, One World at SeaWorld

Cinderella’s Castle is the dreamy, iconic image imprinted on everyone’s mind when the Walt Disney World Magic Kingdom Park (http://www.disneyworld.disney.go.com/) is mentioned. This fairytale fortress surrounded by a sparkling moat has children staring in wide-eyed wonder at its soaring turrets and spires, and who knows what medieval adventures involving jousting knights and beautiful princesses fill their little heads?

Fans of TV talent shows will love American Idol Experience and, with a bit of luck, could take the first steps towards a glittering music career by stepping on stage and impressing the judges in front of a supportive audience of fellow holidaymakers who get to vote for their favourite acts. Continuing the music theme, the 60mph indoor Rock ’n’ Rollercoaster with blaring hits from Aerosmith as you shoot around the track in a stylised stretch limo is one of the best rides in Orlando and for many the highlight of a visit to Disney Hollywood Studios. Here also you’d be mad to miss a go on the frightening freight elevator in the Twilight Zone Tower of Terror, which rises to the 13th floor before falling down the shaft, rising again and, without warning, plunging once more — real heart-in-mouth stuff.

The Disney highlight for me, though, was a tour of the 500-acre Animal Kingdom Park which is home to 1,700 animals from 250 species. Having never been on a real safari, this was the next best thing, being driven around in an open-sided truck while viewing giraffes, hippos, elephants, lions and gorillas.

If you’re visiting Orlando with small children, Disney is unbeatable, but for teenagers and adults, Universal is the place to go. SeaWorld and Discovery Cove will be enjoyed by visitors of all ages.

HOUSE THAT: Give Kids the World's magical Gingerbread House

Every Thursday year-round is Christmas Day in Give Kids the World Village, because many of the small children and teenagers who spend a cost-free week in this 140-villa resort with their families have life-threatening illnesses that mean they may not live to see their next Christmas. Away from the fun and frolics of the parks, a morning’s voluntary stint serving breakfast there was a humbling, heart-rending and overwhelming experience. The story that moved me to tears was that of a five-year-old boy suffering from leukaemia whose dearest wish was to see his parents married in the village’s beautiful little chapel. The good people at GKTW who since 1986 have hosted 100,000 families from throughout the USA and 72 countries worldwide made it happen for him. A few days after watching his parents exchange their vows and with his dream realised, he passed away.

It costs $12 million a year to run the non-profit Give Kids the World and put smiles on the faces of dying children. If you’d like to volunteer a little of your holiday time while in Orlando or make a donation, see www.gktw.org.

WHAT’S NEW?

On October 15 the world’s biggest Legoland opens with more than 50 rides, shows and interactive attractions on a 150-acre site at Winter Haven, 45 minutes’ drive from Orlando. Highlights include Miniland USA with Lego models of Florida, Las Vegas, Washington DC and New York City, a factory tour where you can see how Lego bricks are made and rollercoasters. The park has unveiled a new online reservations programme allowing visitors to book tickets, accommodation and hire cars. See http://www.legoland.com/

FAMILY FUN: Aquazone Wave Racer at new Legoland

WHERE TO STAY

As I said, I’ve stayed twice at the family-friendly, 1,000-room JW Marriott Orlando Grande Lakes (www.grandelakes.com), and if I’m lucky enough to visit Orlando again and have the choice I wouldn’t bunk down anywhere else. It’s only 15 minutes from the airport and the main theme parks, so it’s the ideal base. Guests enjoy full use of the spa with 40 treatment rooms and fitness centre in the adjoining Ritz-Carlton Hotel, and there’s a Greg Norman-designed championship golf course next door. On-site lunch and dinner options include Italian restaurant Primo, the Citron brasserie, the Quench poolside bar and grill, a sushi bar, Cafe Bodega and a Starbucks, while in the Ritz-Carlton there’s the Vineyard Grill steakhouse, the acclaimed and classy Norman’s offering New World Cuisine and the Bleu poolside restaurant.

WHERE TO EAT

I was delighted to see the menu in Galician restaurant Ceviche (www.ceviche.com) in downtown Orlando featured many of my favourite Spanish dishes, so I tucked into squid, octopus, hake, patatas bravas and several other tasty treats like a man who hadn’t eaten for days. More than 100 hot and cold tapas are on offer, as well as paella and cazuelas. The champagne sangria is amazing.

The atmosphere in Crave (www.craveamerica.com), close to the Mall at Millennia, is chic yet casual, and the sushi has won a string of awards, as has the wine list. If you like steak you’ll love the grilled rib eye with Yukon mashed potatoes, tempura onions, blue cheese and red wine reduction.

Forget about cutlery, but grab a bib, in Bubba Gump Shrimp Co (www.bubbagump.com) in Universal Orlando’s CityWalk and get stuck in with your fingers. Mountains of baby back ribs and shrimp are the staples.

Amura (www.amura.com) operates three Japanese restaurants in Orlando, each as good as the others and all regular winners of best-this and best-that awards. There simply aren’t enough superlatives to describe how good the food is, so you’ll have to take my word that they’re all three-mendous.

Sweet Tomatoes (www.souplantation.com), at Lake Buena Vista and several other Orlando locations, is a grab-a-tray, help-yourself, all-you-can-eat restaurant chain where the locals go to fill up. It’s cheap and cheerful and, as our French friends might say, tray bien.

IT'S SPAN-TASTIC: Tapas heaven at Galician restaurant Ceviche

˜See www.visitorlando.com where you’ll find an itinerary-building tool offering holiday ideas and the facility to buy attraction tickets. See also www.americanholidays.com or call Dublin 01 673 3840, Cork 021 236 4636 or Belfast 02890 511840.

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Kajitsu: Fine Day, Fine Meal

I sidled up to the bar, the seats of choice for observing a masterful hand at work. Kevin, my dining companion for the evening, had already arrived and was speaking softly to Chef Masato Nishihara. Unlike Urasawa, Nishihara was not particularly talkative, but both adopted the humble shyness of Japanese artists. Kevin had emailed me a few weeks ago to join him for an impromptu meal at the only Japanese shojin-ryori restaurant with two Michelin stars in America. "Buddhist vegetarian food?" I wondered to myself. Given my recent experience with Vietnamese Buddhist cooking in San Francisco, I jumped at the invitation.

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When eating with Kevin, there is no real choice. We ordered the more extensive tasting menu of the two with accompanying sake pairing ($34). The Hana meal set included nine courses for $70, to which we added two supplemental dishes. While $70 may seem like a steal for a nine course tasting menu, you have to consider how much money you save from having no meat or seafood dishes. While I'm not entirely certain that shojin style cuisine is completely vegan, I didn't detect any trace of animal products in the food.


Terrine of Autumn Vegetables, chestnut crumbs, parsnip puree
Azumaichi (junmai ginjo)

The first course was the prettiest of the evening. Varied and complex vegetable patterns peaked through a gelee, set on a carved plate of wood. The colors were meant to evoke changing seasons. I ate from left to right, while Kevin went the opposite direction. It was a refreshing start to the meal, but too many textures and flavors to form a coherent impact. However, visually, this dish was stunning and showed precise execution that I would expect for the rest of the meal. Kevin remarked at the oddness of parsnip in a Japanese dish. The first sake of the night started fairly sweet, a decent pairing to this floral dish.


Red Miso Soup, maitake mushroom tempura, Japanese eggplant

The dense color of the soup comes from the aging process for the miso, which supposedly enhances the umami flavors and brininess of the soup. While the soup itself was pleasant, the highlight of this dish was the maitake tempura, perched a top a bundle of nasu and elevating it above the liquid. I have never seen maitake tempura, but the crispiness paired with the meaty mushroom and a hint of Japanese mustard convinced me to try this one at home.


Grilled Nama-Fu, miso ($9)

Our set menu was interrupted by the first of our supplements. Nama-fu is wheat gluten, a common vegan meat substitute. It can be formed into different shapes. Here, the lighter block is mixed with rice flour, while the darker one has contains millet flour. Honestly, both tasted the same to me. Both had the texture of a grilled mochi, pliable on the outside, chewy and toothsome on the inside.


Aburi Age ($6)

It's somewhat disingenuous to call this a simple dish. While it may seem simple, the execution in keeping a crisp exterior with a spongy center was elegant in it's simplicity. The pairing with green onions and soy made this one of my favorite selections of the evening. Pictured in the back is also the optional thickened soy sauce and shichimi pepper.


House Udon, goma-dare
Born (junmai daiginjo)

The difference between house-made udon and frozen udon is akin to the difference fresh and dried pasta. Here, each noodle had the proper bite and bounce. Dipped, soba style, in a mixture of sesame sauce, green onion, and chaoyte, it made a little mess on my shirt. But the flavors were so fresh, I could easily eat this udon for a meal on its own. The sake had a dry, rice flavor with a rice aroma.


Slow Simmered Taro, Carrot, Mizuna, Kabocha, Tofu, Burdock
Sasaichi (junmai)

It's impossible to eat at Kajitsu without marveling at the colors of the dishes. Chef Nishihara trained in kaiseki dining, where presentation is an dominant aspect of the meal. Beauty in simplicity could be a mantra painted on the wall in detailed brush strokes. Did I mention that the Chef signed the menu after the meal with a calligraphy brush? This dish is a composite of various vegetables, each cooked separately to varied doneness and compiled in a soy broth. The colors struck me immediately, and I mistook that bright redness for a tomato. I bit into it and found the sweetness of a carrot. The lump in the back is satoimo, taro. I especially enjoyed the topping of yuzu shavings.


Assorted Grilled Vegetables, smoked soy sauce, hibiscus leaf, matsutake mushroom croquet, nama-fu
Kokuryu (ginjo)

The main course was actually the most disappointing. While each component was good on its own right, I felt that the plate lacked a unifying theme. The croquet, an intriguing ball of textures, could have been a separate dish on its own. The nama-fu made a reappearance. Had I known it would've been part of the tasting course, I would not have ordered it separately. However, this time, the cubes of wheat gluten were topped with soba sauce and a dash of wasabi, a flavor profile I though matched better than the soy sauce and shichimi. Since this was the main course, the kokuryu sake was served in a larger glass. Although I can't say much for the pairing, the sake was well-timed because it was my favorite of the night and I had the most of it to drink.



Hijiki Rice, black sesame, konnyaku, puffed rice, house pickles
Daishichi (kimoto)

While you usually won't see a rice course on a tasting menu, I wasn't surprised to see this dish as part of the kaiseki meal. The rice itself was cooked to perfection, as can be expected. Flavors of the hijiki seaweed permeated the rice. I added a few spoonfuls of the puffed rice for texture, but it was unnecessary. Eating the rice with the accompanying pickles, I imagined creating gourmet onigiri, each filled with a different pickled center. The daishichi sake returned to a dryness, considering it no longer needed strong rice notes to pair with a rice dish.


Photo credit: KevinEats
Sweet Potato Kinton, coconut tofu cream

The dessert course was a Japanese confection made of sweet potato with a center of coconut "cream." Biting into it, my first taste reaction was actually renkon or lotus. The waitress didn't mention any lotus among the ingredients, so something about the combination of flavors gave me that sensation.



Matcha, Kyoto Kagizen-yoshifusa candies

According to Kevin, Kagizen-yoshifusa is a renowned confectioner in Kyoto. The tiny candies we received were flavored green tea, plain, and shiso. Each had a burst of sweetness and quickly dissolved to nothing on your tongue, especially when followed by a sip of the freshly made green tea. Chef Nishihara made each bowl himself with exquisite care. Even as the end to a long meal, the tea had an accompanying ceremony.


Chef Masato Nishihara preparing the post meal tea.

Taken from the website, "Kajitsu means 'fine day' or 'day of celebration' in Japanese. We have chosen the name Kajitsu hoping that a visit here will always be a special occasion for our guests."

This principle is reflected in the friendly service we encountered. Considering service, decor, and general ambiance play such a definitive role in Michelin ratings, I can see how this restaurant garnered such acclaim. Yet if I were to compare this two star establishment to the other Japanese two star restaurant I've tried, Urasawa would be a step above. I can't say surely whether that meant Kajitsu should be lowered or Urasawa raised, although it's a moot point now that Michelin is out of Los Angeles. No matter the rating, this is an excellent place to bring a vegetarian or if you feel like a detox. I noticed the lack of meat, but I didn't miss it. Kevin and I thought we would walk out hungry, but we were plenty satisfied.

Kajitsu
kajitsunyc.com
414 E. 9th St. (between 1st and A)
East Village, 10009
(212) 228-4873
$50/$70 tasting menus

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